If
you choose to ride a wave it means you’re putting your life at risk, regardless
of what you ride, and even on small days. That said, there are surf spots that
command respect because they are a notch above the rest in terms of danger and
the prospects of severe injury or death. I’d made a list in a long abandoned
blog and felt that it was time to update the list…. Only to find that many of
these haven’t changed because fear is something that does not waver much in
life.
So here we go.
15. Frontón – Canary Islands
One
of the most high performance bodyboarding waves on the planet is also one of
the most treacherous. Either left or right, this place demands respect. Sure,
people have seen the beautiful lineup, but the reef is shallow and can tackle
15-foot surf to ask the question, do you feel lucky?
14. Luna Park – Australia
I once asked current bodyboarding world champion Jared Houston what were some of the
scariest spots he’d ever surfed and he said Luna Park. Although not as popular
as other big wave spots, just one look and you see it’s a cold water maelstrom begging for flesh.
13. Waimea
Bay – North Shore of Oahu
After
people were able to tackle huge Makaha, they pondered about Waimea. It wasn’t
until Greg Knoll and a bunch of other crazy people decided to dance with Lady
Luck that this wave showed what big wave riding was originally about, going big
or going home. During huge swells, 40-50 foot sets have been known to close out
the bay and it is a wave that can punish you in a variety of ways, from
pitching full throttle on the takeoff, to that treacherous inside shorebreak
that can easily handle double overhead closeouts to reward you for your effort.
12. Cave Rock - South Africa
I
remember the caption from a bodyboarding magazine as if it was today. The picture? A perfect 8 foot right
hand wave. The text: 14 shark attacks in 14 weeks. Although South Africa is
notorious for shark attacks, few places put surfers as much at risk as Cave
Rock. The temptation is high, but the consequences can be dire with many a
fatal attack recorded in this pristine and beautiful break.
11. Dungeons
– South Africa
Big
Waves AND Sharks. Plus, the place is called DUNGEONS. Seriously, this is for
people who like Russian Roulette AND Surf. It packs a punch and a bite in more
ways than one, being a true Great White breeding ground.
10.
Cortes Bank – Pacific Ocean
This
is NOT California. 100 miles off the coast is NOWHERE. Yet this sea bank
represents an island that would rather play at being a reef. The potential of
big waves here is as high as it gets. Pretty much if you have the right wind,
that place can handle anything thrown at it. The challenge are the conditions,
since it is so exposed and so far off, catching it just right is the biggest
hurdle. Oh and you know HUGE SURF. But people have ridden it and it still creeps me out. It has a generous amount of seals, also known as Great White food not to mention the fact that
you’re in the open ocean, so who knows what the hell is swimming around that
lineup?
9.
Ghost Trees – California
Seriously,
someone is an expert at naming ominous surf spots. Located in California, this
huge right hander means that you will get misty lineups and huge waves. I’m
pretty sure the PWC ban still remains, but this place could tackle huge waves
and unfortunately claimed a couple of lives in the process.
8.
Shipstern’s Bluff – Tasmania
It’s
all about the notorious step at Shipstern’s. It’s not enough you’re riding
waves that are in the 15-20+ foot range, you have to negotiate a step that can
either line you up perfectly for the ride of your life or absolutely destroy
you. Plenty of people have also found out how easy it is to get injured at this
place. Oh and did I mention the step? Yeah. That step is nasty.
7. Pea’Hi AKA “Jaws” – Maui
Pretty
much the biggest barrels you can get in the world are at this world-renowned
Maui break commonly known as JAWS. Pushing big wave riding to the extreme, Pea’Hi is the rare big wave
that allows riders to get barreled if they’re willing to pull into a wave where
a MAC Truck can easily fit through. Wipeouts here are often described as
“violent” and when you see the amount of water that is moving, you can’t help
but believe every single word, while still insisting that it’s better to watch
from shore.
6.
El Gringo – Arica, Chile
There
are few if any waves on the planet that have injured more people in contests
than El Gringo. With a heavy right hander that can give you the biggest ramps
to air off, and a left hander that ends up on borderline dry and jagged reef. A couple of year’s
back Ripcurl held a standup surf contest and there were about 4 injuries. They
haven’t been too keen to return, and for good reason: it is one mean ass wave.
5. Nazare
– Portugal
When
you see waves the size of ten-story buildings breaking, you stand in awe on the
cliff next to the break. That anyone thinks it’s a good idea to head out on the
big days shows just how hard big wave surfers are pushing it. I mean, just look
at the picture and tell me you think that’s a good idea.
4.
Teahupoo – Tahiti
Perfection
meets destructive force. Teahupoo is the type of wave you draw in your
notebooks. It is unreal, beautiful, and completely intimidating. Sucking at
times 12 and 15 ft. below sea level, and with lips as thick as the biggest
waves many people have ridden in their lives, Teahupoo is a hydro-kinetic freak of nature that has injured
countless people and I think the only spot I know of that has killed surfers
from the impact on the reef alone.
3.
Mavericks – California
One
of the premier big wave spots in California, Mavericks has murky, cold, brown
water, sharks, a sketchy paddle out and shall forever be known as the spot where
Mark Foo, a very well known and well liked big wave surfer, lost his life. People have been left hanging on the rocks gripping to not be taken by the
surge. It is a place not to be taken lightly. Even so, J eff Clark used to surf this place alone for years. What a hellman.
2.
Banzai Pipeline – North Shore of Oahu
Everyone
who has ever ridden a wave knows Pipeline. It is one of the most photographed
waves on the planet and as beautiful as it is deadly. Last time I did this
list, I put Mavericks in front of Pipeline. Taking a closer look at the death
toll and the close calls the break has had in the last year alone, it got bumped up
to #2 on the merits of reef caves, unpredictability, power, and deadliness.
1.
Shark Island – Cronulla, Australia
Pound
for pound, this shall forever be the scariest wave I think I’ve ever seen,
simply because it is an unpredictable monster and you’re throwing the dice on
every single ride. Super Shallow, super sketchy, a nasty end bowl called Surge,
and has severely injured many riders. Although other spots have taken more
lives, the Island is notorious for showing you a line that looks like heaven
only to dump you into hell on the rocks.
So what do you think of this list? Anything else you'd like to see me list it up? Then drop a comment and let me know.
Peace, love, and air maki rolls.
No comments:
Post a Comment