Ride on, Tom

Today the bodyboarding community unites to send off someone who is our collective grandfather or uncle, Tom Morey. This year we celebrated 50 years of bodyboarding and today we raise a glass of salt-water wine to the guy who started it all for us. 

 

What’s curious is that Tom invented many things…but the bodyboard is what unites so many of us today and he’ll probably be most known for. Generous with his time and knowledge, I don’t know a single person who met him who didn’t think the world of him. What I love about Tom is that like many of the highest profile riders and ambassadors of the sport, he was always humble and never interested much in tooting his own horn. Instead, he’d rather play the ukulele or do something more worthwhile to contribute to the world.

 

If you see his trajectory, it’s also clear he was never in it for the money and instead was more into spreading aloha and creating an invention that at the same time lowers and elevates the skill curve of wave riding. I’ve always mentioned that one of the more beautiful things about bodyboarding is how accessible it is, meaning that most people can put on a pair of fins, paddle out, and catch a wave. You might not be an expert or do the more advanced maneuvers, but you’ll be able to ride a wave and even make it to the shore during your first surf. At the same time, the nature of bodyboarding allows people to make critical drops and throw PLENTY of caution to the wind. How much? Well let’s just say MANY of the waves you’ve seen “discovered” by surfers were ridden by bodyboarders first. When you see contests, it’s always extremely competitive because the level is so high making it a truly global sport with chargers from anywhere with waves. 

Growing up on an Island, it’s fairly normal to pick up a watercraft of some sort. As for falling in love with the sport, well how often can you do something that lets you feel like you’re flying over water? I’ve been riding over 20 years and some of my happiest, most profound, and intense experiences have been in a lineup. I’ve had a blast surfing with friends and been able to heal deep wounds and experience profound epiphanies in the waves…all thanks to one invention from a dreamer that today rides on into the light. 

 

From so many who shall keep riding your dream.

 

Mahalo